You probably know it all too well ā thereās a thin line between a glowing and a greasy face. And while eradicating all traces of oil is tempting, it can actually make the situation worse. āThe biggest mistake people with oily skin make is overdrying their skin,ā explains Dr. Heidi A. Waldorf ofĀ Waldorf Dermatology AestheticsĀ in Nanuet. āIn fact, it can lead to worsening acne and skin quality, as the dryness will send a signal to the skin to make even more sebum to compensate, leading to even oilier skin,ā says Dr. Michelle Park ofĀ Washington Square Dermatology. No thank you.
The culprit of oily skin is sebum, which comes from the bodyās oil-producing sebaceous glands ā while it protects and hydrates and is essential for healthy skin, ātoo much sebum can lead to oily skin, clogged pores, and acne,ā explainsĀ Dr. Gretchen Frieling, a board-certified dermatopathologist in Boston. And unfortunately, whether you have oily skin or not has to do with your family tree ā so, yes, you can blame your parents for this one. Although the amount of oil your skin generates is dependent on your genes, āyou can minimize the appearance of oily skin by using specific skin-care products,ā according toĀ Dr. Joshua Zeichner, director of cosmetic and clinical research in dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital.
Thatās true of theĀ moisturizerĀ you use, too ā excessive oil might be your skinās cry for help. When it comes to a face wash, folks with oily skin should avoid oils, which will just compound the problem ā so no avocado, apricot, mineral, almond, or coconut oils, for example, according toĀ Dr. Debra Jaliman, a board-certified dermatologist who runs her own practice. Thatās also a sentiment shared by Dr. Rosemarie Ingleton ofĀ Ingleton DermatologyĀ and board-certified dermatologistĀ Dr. Hadley King.
A few of the experts we talked to recommend looking for ingredients like salicylic acid, which is common in skin care forĀ acne-prone skinĀ (which usually goes āhand in handā with oily skin, Ingleton points out), and glycolic acid.Ā Dr. Jennifer MacGregorĀ of Union Square Laser DermatoĀlogy recommends trying light peeling agents like glycolic acid and salicylic acid to help with oil production. āFor those with oily skin that tend to get blocked pores, I love gentle glycolic cleansers,ā she says. Youāll want to avoid harsher washes, which ācan strip the necessary lipids and proteins that make up the brick-and-mortar structure of a healthy skin barrier,ā Waldorf advises. āAfter washing, the skin should feel supple and soft, not dry and tight.ā That means refraining from a routine that includes an anti-oil wash plus a toner plus an astringent plus an exfoliant: āThe combination may be too much especially when people mix and match,ā according to Waldorf.
For oil-controlling (but not skin-stripping) face washes, we asked dermatologists and makeup artists for their recommendations.
Best overall face wash for oily skin
When choosing a face wash, Park says to look for something āgentle and foaming, so it can gently remove oil and impurities.ā She adds that it should also be oil-free and noncomedogenic (i.e., wonāt clog pores). She, King, Ingleton, and Frieling all recommend CeraVeās Foaming Facial Cleanser, which Park says is safe for all skin types, including oily skin. Itās a ābasic, effective, easy-to-find option,ā according to Ingleton.āI love this product because the formula has three essential ceramides to cleanse the skin without stripping it in the process,ā says Frieling. Ceramides, she adds, help skin rebuild and repair the protective barrier to make it more resilient against future damage and signs of aging. It also contains hyaluronic acid, which provides moisture, and niacinamide, which soothes and calms the skin, while sodium lauroyl lactylates give the cleanser its foaming consistency, which helps loosen skin impurities.
King mentions that this āwell-formulatedā foaming cleanser can help āremove oil without drying out the skin.ā Park notes that, because foaming washes get deeper into your pores than creamier solutions to remove dirt, oil, and makeup, it has the potential to leave the skin feeling dry. If you find a foaming cleanser too drying, she advises experimenting with different ones to find one that works for your skin. āAnd itās important to remember to continue to moisturize the face,ā she adds.
Other foaming cleansers
Zeichner also recommends a foaming face wash for his patients who have oily skin, saying that they āmore effectively remove oil as compared to cleansing lotions or balms.ā He recommends this gentle daily foaming cleanser from Neutrogena because it contains āhydrophobically modified polymers,ā which he says āeffectively cleanse and remove dirt and oil without disrupting the outer skin layer.ā
Hereās another foaming recommendation from Park, and it also contains ceramides, which maintain the skin barrier, as well as niacinamide, which can lower sebum excretion rates.
If you find a foaming cleanser too drying, makeup artistĀ Shara StrandĀ recommends trying a cleansing gel, like this one from Mario Badescu. āAny gel is great for oily skin, as gel is really cooling, and it has moisturizing elements to balance out oily skin,ā she explains. This particular cleanser includes fruit enzymes and alpha hydroxy acids that gently exfoliate impurities from the skin. Strand suggests starting with micellar water on a cotton pad to remove makeup, then washing with the gel, then following up with a lightweight moisturizer. According to Strand, āThe less product you use on your face, the less oily your skin will be.ā
Another foaming cleanser to consider for your skin-care shelf, this one comes courtesy of Jaliman, who calls out the glycerin specifically in its ingredient list. āGlycerin is a moisturizing agent,ā she says. āIt works to pull water from the air into your skin.ā But the best part of this cleanser? Itās gentle enough for those who also use stronger acne products with ingredients like retinoids ā the more mild, the less of a chance of drying out, Jaliman explains.
Face washes for acne-prone oily skin
According to Park, having an excess of sebum can lead to clogged pores from dead skin cells sticking to the sebum, which results in acne. If you are prone to breakouts, she recommends looking for a face wash that can gently exfoliate the skin to get rid of impurities, dirt, and oil. āProducts that contain low amounts of benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid will achieve this without being too harsh,ā says Park.Ā Dr. Tara RaoĀ of Schweiger Dermatology Group agrees that those two ingredients can help reduce some of the oil buildup that occurs on the skin throughout the day. Park recommends Neutrogenaās Oil-Free Acne Wash ā whose active ingredient is salicylic acid ā as a reliable option for a face wash thatās gentle yet effective. Itās one of Kingās picks as well for similar reasons ā she particularly likes theĀ Pink GrapefruitĀ version since it āfeels more fun, less clinical, and has a refreshing scent.ā Jaliman also points out that this wash features aloe, which is soothing to the skin.
Zeichner also recommends products with salicylic acid āif you are very oily, or have acne breakouts.ā Salicylic acid, he explains, is a beta hydroxy acid āthat effectively removes oil along with dead cells on the surface of the skin to mattify the skin and keep the pores clear.ā He recommends two: one a āgentle lathering cleanserā (i.e., foaming) from Aveeno that is effective even on sensitive skin, and an acne-targeting wash from Clean and Clear.
Waldorf also recommends Aveenoās Clear Complexion collection, including the foaming cleanser that has Zeichnerās stamp of approval. But for her patients, she starts them off with theĀ cream versionĀ of the cleanser, which has a slightly higher concentration of salicylic acid ā she would choose the foam for those with dry acne-prone skin and the cream for those with oily acne-prone skin.
[Editorās note: TheĀ Clean and Clear cleanserĀ is currently only available through a third-party seller on Amazon. You can, however, buy theĀ scrub versionĀ of this cleanser directly from Target.]
Dubbed the best cleanser for hyperoily skin by dermatologists in our guide to theĀ best face washes for acne, this foaming cream helps loosen dead cells to unveil newer-looking skin, according to dermatologist and co-host ofĀ The DoctorsĀ Dr. Sonia Batra. But the acids in the cleanser āwork to rid skin of common acne concerns such as oiliness, pimples, andĀ blackheads,ā Batra added.
Clay cleanser for oily skin
Clay, along with aloe and cucumber, can be a soothing ingredient in a face wash, makeup artist Clara Rea previously explained in our guide to theĀ best face washes. Frieling recommends this clay cleanser from Dermalogica, which contains kaolin, bentonite, and green clays, which she says ābanish excess oil and impurities to deep-cleanse the skin.ā To balance out these ingredients, itās infused with menthol, sage, cucumber, and milk proteins, which Frieling says also help with calming the skin.
[Editorās note: While this cleanser is currently out of stock, Dermalogica offers the similar-soundingĀ Active Clay Cleanser, which features kaolin clay and charcoal and which the brand says is designed to help downplay the look of pores. Itās also $39.]
Charcoal cleanser for oily skin
āCharcoal is another commonly used ingredient for oily skin because it is highly absorbent and attaches to and removes oil from the skin,ā says Zeichner. He recommends this warming gel cleanser from Boscia that contains both activated charcoal and vitamin C to help remove oil and refine skin texture.
Face-wash alternatives for oily skin
Bedi chooses to forego face washes (which she says āare filled with chemicals and are drying to the skinā) altogether, instead using this witch-hazel facial toner from Thayers to cleanse her face. She likes that itās āgentle and hydratingā and uses it on cotton pads to clean her face, even when sheās wearing makeup. (She takes off her eye makeup with a separate eye-makeup remover first.)
To exfoliate, Bedi uses this scrub every two to three weeks to slough away dead skin. The physical exfoliant has crystals that, according to Bedi, āare perfectly round and roll on the skin, and so will not microscopically tear pores and enlarge them.ā
This recommendation from Waldorf is a favorite of her patients ā it can be used after cleansing or on its own two to three times a week. Itās made with clay, which helps absorb any superficial oil (and can have a mattifying effect), and also acts as a mild exfoliator, Waldorf explains. Along with clay, the mask includes sage, which serves as an anti-inflammatory (for redness), and glycerin, which āpulls in and holds moisturizer like a sponge,ā according to Waldorf. Itās this combination of ingredients that helps maintain the skinās moisture when it comes to this mask, she says.